Scotland......

     

 Scotland. How can you begin to describe a land so haunted by its prominent ghosts and traditions, yet also basks in its own unique modern culture and vibe? Really, you just can not. From the narrow Close’s in Edinburgh’s Old Town, where amazing restaurants hide among the bends and stairs awaiting discovery, to the vast open spaces of the Highlands which possess views so stunning they render you, well, speechless. Scotland is a contradiction of sorts. It is wild and untamed, yet home to a passionate intellectual tradition and witty sarcasm. It can be cold and damp with its schizophrenic weather patterns, yet, every door open to a visitor will have a warm hearth and open hearts. I went to Scotland looking for something,  not quite sure of what however. Perhaps solitude, a spiritual awakening, a calming force to settle my very unsettled soul. (Still looking...) Regardless, I was too distracted by its constant beauty, by its welcoming citizens, and by its general soul to remember that I was looking for something.

Scotland was the first place that I traveled to solo. The welcome I received was like no other on what amounts to a puddle jumper from Dublin to Glasgow. Trying to outrun one of their infamous “winter storms” listening to the businessman behind puking, praying it didn’t get into my hair, while watching my Irish seatmate clutch her rosary, to say the landing was rough would not do it justice. The landing was Scottish. But, when I snuck a look out the window after we broke through the clouds it became clear that possible death in a plane crash was made worth it by the stunning countryside that awaited. We disembarked, collected our wet luggage, and I hopped on a bus to Queen’s station in the city center of Glasgow to catch a train to Edinburgh. It proved so easy, that I arrived before noon to my hotel.

I started my tip in Edinburgh and ended it in Glasgow. The two cities could not be more different, and it was apropos. I basked in what felt like the solitude of Edinburgh, exploring the museums and castle, eating lonely dinners at amazing restaurants. Wandering the streets at night thinking about ghosts from the past, debating on another glass of wine. I relished my ability to decide my own itinerary for that day and the days ahead. If the sun unexpectedly came out, I could rush up to Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park, or run to the National Monument of Scotland on Calton Hill. I felt unburdened and free. Glasgow on the other hand was slightly more rowdy, and in a good way. At times it reminded me of Chicago, even if you are alone, you never quite feel alone. The city was bursting with activity. An early morning walk through Kelvingrove Park was full of families, and once in the Kelvingrove Museum, I found it bursting with energy, along with the pedestrian mall and the winter/Christmas market set up St. Enoch's Square.

Author Alexander McCall Smith once said of Edinburgh that the city was so beautiful it "breaks the heart again and again." If Edinburgh is what continually breaks your heart, then the countryside, the Highlands and Islands especially, seep into your soul with unexpected weight. It is seductive, yet harsh. The rain and wind slap you with a cold reality, but the nights at a pub are like a warm blanket of whisky and beer. With laughter, questions, teasing, comforting food, and cigarettes. Lots of cigarettes...It is radical acceptance, a reconciliation of passion and devotion to the passing of time with the now, actually living, and being present. It has an unabashed identity, like its national animal, the unicorn. A righteous beast that preferred death to a life without freedom. A solid middle finger to those who would "think" to steal their sovereignty, their will, or passion. I could wax poetic about their seafood, haggis, Speyside Whisky versus other regions, what the best monuments are, which city or village is superior, but the truth is, I could never chose a favorite.

There is no single way to tangibly convey the spirit of Scotland. Not through photos or words. It is an experience best sought in person, because you will have your own idea, feelings, and perception. That is the beauty of travel, everyone's perception is of their own doing. Your experiences not only contribute to who you are and who you become, but affect how you see the world around you. It is why I want to help you travel on your own terms, it is the purpose of Travel Further. Find your own world and do not be afraid to see what you want to see, just travel further! Scotland is a great place to start....